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 Crystal Crests
Honolua Bay, Maui
We were excited when we woke up that morning at the Kaanapali Beach Hotel. We knew we had time to go for a surf before the shoot right in front of the hotel. We headed up the road and saw small waves at Honolua Bay. This was the first time Bob had seen Honolua and he was excited when we saw a few clean ones sneak in unridden. I had lived at Honokawai about 12 years prior and I knew the breaks well. After we stopped at the cliff at the entrance to the Bay and checked for a few more sets, I suggested we look at Windmills. Bob was a goofy foot and if there were waves he might enjoy the power. When we go there the winds were unfavorable, so I said we should check one more spot, Honokahau. Honokahau Valley is a very spiritual place with rugged cliffs dropping endlessly into the ocean. You could see ancient Hawaiian faces in the mountains and you could feel the power. This was also primarily a left break with long lines wrapping into a deep bay. It was also a bit bumpy, but I quickly waxed up my freshly shaped Terry Senate design and jumped into the water. I started on the left but quickly realized the rights across the bay were shaped much better. I had personal satisfaction in surfing this magnificent place in honor of my childhood friend, Dave Sweedler whom I had lived with over a decade prior in Maui. He had since moved out to Hana to seek peace and solitude in a way many of us only dream we could pull off. While I surfed, Bob witnessed to a local who had lost his path and could use some words of encouragement.
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Now it was time to move onto Honolua Bay. By the time we got there, the morning sickness had faded and there were some beautiful six footers and the crowd was still manageable. We scaled down the steep cliff and jumped off the rocks and into the lineup down at Keiki Bowls. |
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After paddling in the pecking order, I hoped I would recognize someone from my days when I worked at Leilani's at Kaanapali at night and surfed all day. By the time I had left in 1990, I had secured a place in the pecking order. Like any great surfbreak, those that surf it day in day out get the first pick. I saw Dexter sitting on the peak, but I didn't feel that motivated
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to move into the center of the pack so I resolved myself to catching the insiders or swing waves that would swing wide of the Cave and fire in towards Keiki Bowls. This worked well for me as I scored a wave with three in and out tubes. After several hours and countless waves, the lineup became ridiculous with three guys on every wave. It is always sad to see how the crowds have grown but welcome to "future shock". |
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| I was satisfied, so I raced up the cliff and called the crew who were setting up for the TLC shoot at Kaanapali. Ed Suzuki told me the location had fallen through because the producer had his permit for the day before and they were setting up the set on the other side of the island. This was a panic situation as Bob was still in the water and we were an hour away. The next thirty minutes was comical as I flailed my arms on the cliff trying not to look too stupid yet trying to get Bob's attention. It was too late to save face, so I hooted and hollered until Bob finally got the message. He raced up the cliff and off to the shoot we went...next chapter |
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| Other chapters in this series include:
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